成为冲浪手
surfer
想要成为一名货真价实的冲浪手，并非一朝一夕，跟任何运动一样，冲浪这项运动需要非常刻苦地练习，今天讲的就是提高自身冲浪技术的方法，希望能给初学者一点帮助。
很多初学者认为，只要能在冲浪板上站起来就算是会冲浪了，这真是就好像人家问你会不会打篮球，你说我会投篮一样，完全是不同的。
1.成为一个滑板滑手
学习滑手们的心态，拥有反复尝试同一个动作并努力成功的决心，这会对你学习冲浪的腾空动作非常有帮助。对于转向也会有帮助，但更多需要你花时间去学习，读懂海浪，并学会在不同的浪上做出相应的动作。
1. Be a skater
Getting a skating mindset and practising certain moves over and over again is a good way to learn airs. For turns, it’s still repetition, but it’s more about going out and learning how to read waves and adapt to them.
2.感受体会你的转向动作
不用过份仔细的分析你的动作，冲浪运动中有很多东西是教练无法教给你的，有时更多是你自己的感觉和体会。尝试不同的海浪，并努力每天都去冲浪。
2. Feel the turn
Don’t analyse manoeuvres too closely. There’s so many things in surfing that can’t be taught. It’s all just feeling. It’s riding every different kind of wave and surfing every day.
3.找到一个推动你前进的人
尝试去与比自己水平高的人一起冲浪，这跟从事其他运动一样，会帮助你提升。但别让他人的高超技术击败你的内心，让你觉得遥不可及。
3. Find a pusher
Surf with people better than you. This relates to anything. It’ll always help you progress. But, don’t let it defeat you and make you bummed out.
4.清楚认识自己，并加以鞭策
至少每月看一次自己冲浪的视频。这是一个很好学习进步的方式。你可以将你的动作跟你最喜欢的冲浪手比较，看到你与他们的差距，并找出你进步的空间。很多冲浪人都会有这样的体会，当你冲浪的时候，你感觉你表现太出色了killed it !但在视频上你却发现你其实很一般。有时不是你用力越大越好，而是你怎么用力，用在哪里，才能让你的动作好看！记住作对时的感受，反复练习吧！
4. Humiliate yourself
As confronting as it can be, watch footage of yourself at least once a month. I feel that this has to be the best way to learn. You can compare it to your favourite surfers, see what they have that you’re lacking, see where you can improve. Even for me, now, I’ll go and have a surf and feel like I was ripping, then I’m bummed out on the footage. Or I’ll think I’m having a shocker and the footage makes it look good. Think about what looked good, how it felt and how to do that again.
5. 加入一个冲浪俱乐部！
这不一定适用每个人，有些人天生好斗，喜欢有压力的竞争，这对你的技术提高非常有益，因为你会在自由冲浪时努力做一些平时不会做的动作，从然进步。当然也有很多人不喜欢竞技性冲浪，更多在乎灵魂冲浪或者喜欢这种很放松的生活方式。但无疑，如果你喜欢在压力下前进，你一定会在冲浪运动上有所造诣！
5. Join a club
This doesn’t work for everyone. If you’re naturally competitive and like the pressure, it helps your surfing a lot because you’ll try crazier stuff and put yourself in positions that you wouldn’t put yourself in when freesurfing. There’s also people who don’t like competing and crack under pressure. But, if you like the pressure, you’re guaranteed to push your surfing to another level.
6.成为一个合群的人
去经常和那些pro一起冲浪，别担心你抢不到浪，这种时候你更多需要去学习他们的心态，他们的技术，他们的一切，细心观察！我们每个人可能都会喜欢看那些pro在电影里超乎常人的表现，但与他们一起冲浪会让你发现在同样的浪况下，他们可能也许就表现的一般，也会摔，也会做出错误的动作选择，他们也是人，也会犯错误。
6. Be a groupie
Freesurf near WT or prime events whenever you can so you can watch pros in the water. Growing up, I loved any chance I had to be around those guys or to watch a contest. Back then, I wasn’t thinking so much about learning, it was more about the experience of seeing those guys. But, looking back now, there’s guys who you’d watch in movies then see in real life and you realise there’s a difference because all the bad stuff gets chopped out in a movie. It definitely helps your confidence, knowing that. I remember when I was a grom I watched Kelly Slater in Black and White relentlessly with my brothers and I was convinced that Kelly didn’t fall off.
7.不要骄傲
这可能不容易，冲浪世界也会不公平，往往拿到大牌赞助的选手并非真正的高手，但有了成就，就不应自满。时常向其他浪人请教他们是怎么成功完成动作的，会对你很有帮助。你可能看过很多影片，很懂得分析，但并不代表你有那个能力去完成动作。多请教别人，抱着学习的心态冲浪你会进步更快！
7. Don’t be proud
It ain’t easy but it helps if you ask better surfers how they nail their tricks and what techniques they use. That is, if you have the right relationship with that person. If I surf with someone and get along with them I’ll happily ask how to do things. Sometimes, I get asked myself and I’m more than happy to share what I know.
8.不要带着情绪冲浪
学会放松，不要带着情绪冲浪，当你有想法一定要完成什么动作，或者一定要怎样的时候，会毁了你自由冲浪的时间。放松，因为很多酷的动作都会是在不经意间完成的。
8. No crazy eyes
Don’t try and get in the zone in the water. I feel that it never helps when you free surf. When you go freesurfing you need to take it as a new experience and not put pressure on it. The coolest stuff happens when you’re having fun. Go out with an open attitude. If you’re having a good time and not worrying about falling off, it reflects in the way your session goes. If you paddle out going, “I’ve gotta do the sickest air,” you tend to get pissed off and never achieve it.
9.一步一个脚印
很多人都很急于求成，但每个高手都是花了很久才练就的一身好功夫，不要觉得电影里看到的那些几秒动作很光鲜而忘记了拍摄时可能剪掉了那800次的失败尝试。一步一个脚印，脚踏实地进步吧！
9. Bubba steps
Know that sometimes less is more. The hardest thing for someone learning is the fact that they wanna do things the way they see them straight away, instead of taking the baby steps that the guy who can do it has taken over the years. When you see the best guys in movies do something, you forget they’ve chopped out the 800 that weren’t made or didn’t look as cool. You can’t worry about how it looks, you need to realise there’s steps to take before you get to that point. When you’re learning finners, you won’t do one like Reynolds where you hit the lip vertically and go inverted. You’ve gotta start doing little horizontal slides. You’ve gotta start basic.
10. 读懂你的冲浪板
非常重要，学会找到最适合自己的板。进步其实很多是与享受冲浪紧密连接的，不要太固执的在2ft膝盖高无力的浪上还要选择用高表现力的pro板，此时一个鱼板或者厚一些的板可以给你提供更多的速度，甚至让你做出腾空动作。你不能改变浪况，你只能适应它，而每种浪况都会有适合它的板。板的设计有很多细节，板型，板底弧度，鳍的大小，等等。不要太一根筋，建议你多换换板，这样会让你更快的读懂冲浪板！
10. Know your surfboards
Learn to pick boards that suit conditions. Progressing has a lot to do with having fun. It’s silly to ride a high-performance shortboard when it’s two-foot and weak, when you could be on a fish and getting all sorts of speed to do airs. You can’t force a situation. There’s a board for every condition. There’s so many options with shapes, rockers, fins, fin systems. It’s endless. If you’re bored with something, try something different.
11.知道你的心情
冲浪是一个与心情紧密联系的运动。与音乐相通。性格平和舒缓的人更喜欢长板的飘逸优雅，而性格激进跳动的人更喜欢短板的速度和水花。每个人的心情都会变化，例如你早上起来喝了咖啡，激动的想跳进水里就开始做大尺度的动作，也许你真的会去做，而且会成功，至少你会去尝试。但有时你的心情舒缓，更适合划水出去简单的冲几道浪即可。
11. Know your mood
Your surf can be dictated by your mood. If you’re super amped-up on coffee and wanna go out and do a million of the sickest turns or biggest airs, you’re gonna go and try it. Not to say you’re gonna do it, but you’ll at least have the energy to try. There’s also times when you just wanna cruise and trim. The mood’s set before you paddle out.、
12.相信自己，你可以做任何动作！
把某个难度动作看做是可以完成的，因为每个动作都有适合它的浪况。有些你觉得你一辈子都不可能实现的动作，结果某一天的浪况非常适合它，你没准就成功了! 然后你多次尝试，发现其实并不是遥不可及。重要的是学会读懂海浪，知道什么浪况适合实现什么动作。
12. You can do anything
View a trick as achievable. Everything takes a certain type of wave. There’ll be things that you think are unachievable until one day you surf a wave that’s perfect for that trick. Then you try it and go, wow, it is achievable. You get that little bit of inspiration and then you know what to go for when those conditions are right. Say a rodeo is something you’d love to do. If you always surf fat waves, you’re never going to get the opportunity to try it, and you’re going to think it’s unachievable. It’s about knowing waves and knowing what to try in what conditions.
13.海浪是在变化的老师
如果你在一个沙滩浪点长大，那么每年365天每天浪都会不一样。但如果你成长在像黄金海岸或者海南的日月湾的点浪，那作为一个当地人，你绝对有优势，因为海浪不会有太大变化。沙滩浪更难也更具挑战，它也会教会你更多，教会你学会适应各种浪况。无论哪里都会有长有短！
13. Waves are teachers
There’s something to learn from every wave. If you grow up on a beachbreak you’re gonna surf different conditions 365 days a year. But if you grow up somewhere like the Gold Coast with long point breaks, you definitely have an advantage of being a local and knowing the wave inside out. Beachbreaks are always a tough one, but they’re also a good thing because you learn to adapt to every different condition. There’s a positive to everything.
14.找一个疯狂的伙伴
选择一个会带你去冲大浪的朋友，跟你同龄，激励你去挑战自我。有时他会激发出最好的你！
14. Get a crazy pal
Find a friend who you can push you in big waves. You definitely need someone to push you and if they’re around the same age, even better. It’s a huge motivation. This applies to all waves, really. If you’ve got someone that’s a similar ability and age, it always brings out the best in you.
15. 学会拥有一颗进取的心
进取心不是人人都有，但那些不怕失败，不怕出洋相的人更容易学会更多。世界上会有很多人不愿意失败，但在失败是成功的必经之路。例如Craig Anderson, 他不喜欢冲浪比赛，每逢比赛屡屡失败，后执意成为freesurfer自由浪人，但不代表成为自由浪人就可以不用进取，craig 则更加专注努力完成更高的腾空，钻进更大的浪管，在影片中表现出了让世人惊讶的表现。所以进取心是无处不在的，只要你想成为一个好的浪手！
15. Get competitive
Recognise your competitiveness and play to your strength. Competitiveness isn’t something you can force. Everyone’s competitive to an extent, but it’s the people who aren’t afraid of losing or looking silly who learn the most. There’s always people who are too worried about how they’d look if they lost. Guys like Craig Anderson aren’t competitive in a contest sense, but they’re competitive in the sense that they wanna do a bigger air or get more barrels, and bring out the best movie part. You’ve gotta push your surfing when you’re filming those movie sections. Competitiveness is always there, just in different forms.
注：转载自黄漠雨
编辑/林檎
来源｜ 冲浪万宁
