前情提要:
登山队预计要在山上扎下五个营地,艾莉森.查德威克和莉兹.克洛布希茨先去5000米高的地方扎下第一个营地,其他人在营地之间运送食物的装备,在洛巴桑的建议下,她们要在九中旬从2号营向更高处攀登。8月28日下午两点半第一个营地搭建完成。
故事原文:
4 Storms and Other Problems 暴风雪和其他问题
On September 3rd, Arlene wrote in her diary:
9月3日,阿琳在她的日记中写道:
At last we seem to be working together as a team, and everyone seems happier. It must be the hard work of carrying loads between Camp 1 and Camp 2.It will take us two weeks to carry enough tents and equipment to Camp 2 before our climbers go on up the mountain.We must be careful climbing between Camps 1 and 2.We have to cross the glacier and at any moment we could fall down a crevasse and be lost forever!We also have to worry about the effects of thin air at high altitudes.Camp2 is at over 5500 metres, and there is not much oxygen in the air. We have found that it’s best to climb only 350 metres a day. We work for two days and rest for one.At this altitude, people often have headaches, and sleep badly. They can’t think clearly, and they don't want to eat -even chocolate doesn't taste good.
我们终于开始像一个团队那样一起工作了,每个人似乎都更加开心。从一号营地运东西到二号营地势必是一项艰巨的工作。在登山队员继续登山前,我们得花两周的时间把足够多的帐篷和装备运到二号营地。我们必须小心翼翼地在一号营地和二号营地之间攀登。我们得穿越冰川,而且随时可能掉下冰隙,永远消失!我们还得担心高海拔处稀薄空气的影响。二号营地在5,500米以上,那儿的空气中没有多少氧气。我们发现一天最好只爬350米。我们工作两天休息一天。在这样的海拔高度,人会经常头疼,而且睡眠不好。她们无法清楚地思考问题,而且没有食欲--连巧克力吃起来都不觉得香了。
But the team was certainly happier now that the hard work had begun. At nights they sat together in the tents and sang songs after dinner. Arlene was beginning to feel that her job as leader was not so difficult after all. But time was passing and she had to start thinking about the best way to reach the summit, and who should go.On big Himalayan expeditions like this, only two or three climbers could hope to reach the summit. All the other members of the expedition helped by carrying equipment and food up the mountain. This work was very important,but Arlene knew that all the women really wanted to be summit climbers.
然而,艰巨任务的开始无疑让全队上下感到更加高兴了。晚饭后她们一起坐在帐篷里唱歌。阿琳开始觉得,自己的领队工作也没有那么困难。但随着时间的流逝,她得开始考虑登顶的最佳路线和人选了。在这样一支庞大的喜马拉雅探险队中,只有两三个登山者有希望登顶。其余的探险队成员帮助向山上运送装备和食物。这项工作也非常重要,但阿琳知道所有的女队员都很想登上顶峰。
Which women would climb the next, and most dangerous, part of the mountain first? The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3, at 6,400 metres, was the most difficult part of the mountain. It was called'The Dutch Rib because it was the route the Dutch team had taken on their expedition in 1977. The route was extremely narrow -- often only a few centimetres wide -- with drops of hundreds of metres on each side. Although it was the most difficult way up, it was safer than the routes taken by the French and British expeditions because there was not so much danger from avalanches.
哪些女队员率先去走接下来那段最危险的路呢?从二号营地到6,400米处的三号营地之间的路是最难走的。人们称它作“荷兰肋”,因为1977年的荷兰探险队走的就是这条路。这条路异乎寻常的窄---常常只有几厘米宽--两边都是几百米深的悬崖。这尽管是最困难的上山路线,但却比法国和英国探险队的路线更安全,因为这里没有太多雪崩的危险。
Only the four most experienced ice climbers should lead the next climb,from Camp 2 to Camp 3’said Arlene to the team as they were sitting at breakfast some days later.'Liz and Alison will lead the first day,Vera Karmakova and Piro the next.The rest of us will continue carrying between Camps 1 and 2.'
“只有四个经验最丰富的冰峰登山者可以在接下来的这次攀登中打头阵,从二号营地前往三号营地,”几天后阿琳在早饭时向队员们宣布,“第一天打头阵的是莉兹和艾莉森,第二天是薇拉·卡玛科娃和皮罗。其余的人继续在一号和二号营地之间搬运东西。”
The leading climbers would fix ropes so that the other climbers could climb the difficult places more easily.As Arlene had thought, some of the other women were disappointed.
打头阵的登山者会固定好绳索,这样后来的人就可以更为容易地爬过不好爬的地方。就像阿琳预料的那样,有的女队员非常失望。
'Everyone should get a chance to lead,’said Vera Watson.
“每个人都应该有打前锋的机会,”薇拉·沃森说道。
Others agreed with Vera, but Margi Rusmore, one of the youngest members,finally said:'I think Arlene's plan is good. We should try it. If it doesn't work, we can change it.’
其他人都同意薇拉的意见,但最年轻的队员玛尔吉·拉斯莫尔最后说道:“我觉得阿琳的方案可行。我们应该试一试。如果她的方案不行,我们可以改。”
Things went well for a while,but on September 18th Irene's voice came onto the radio from Camp2'There's half a metre of new snow here, and the wind is terrible!
暂时一切顺利,但是在9月18日,无线电设备中传来二号营地艾琳的声音,“这儿积下了半米深的雪,风很大!"
At Base Camp, Arlene immediately became worried, and was afraid that an avalanche would follow.She was right. 'Come back down.It could last for days,’warned Arlene, though she knew that coming down would also be dangerous. At Base Camp below, the others waited for hours and hours. Finally Alison,Irene and Piro appeared through the snow and wind.They were exhausted, wet and disappointed-but safe.
呆在大本营的阿琳马上担心起来,她害怕随后会发生雪崩。她的担心是对的。尽管阿琳知道下山也会有危险,但她还是告诫说,“回到大本营来。大雪会持续好几天。”余下的队员在大本营等待了数小时。终于,艾莉森、艾琳和皮罗在风雪中出现了。她们筋疲力尽,浑身湿透而且神情沮丧--不过都安然无恙。
The storm continued the next day,and Arlene ordered a rest day. Anyway,it was impossible to climb in this wind and snow. Their clothes and equipment were very wet, and it was very difficult to get dry again. The women and Sherpas spent the day talking and resting, though the storm was still bad, and they could hear avalanches across the valley. Yeshi, the cook, was reminded of the 1974 French expedition to Mount Qomolangma on which he had climbed. An avalanche had killed six people; the leader of the team and five Sherpas had died, all friends of his.'I'll never climb again,’said Yeshi. This was why he had become a cook. It was much safer.
第二天接着下暴风雪,阿琳下令休息一天。无论如何,他们不可能在这样的风雪中登山。他们的衣服和装备都湿透了,而且很难弄干。尽管暴风雪依旧很大,而且还能听到山谷那边雪崩的声音,队员们还是和夏尔巴人聊天、休息以消磨时光。厨师耶什想起了1974年自己随法国探险队攀登珠穆朗玛峰的往事。雪崩夺去了六个人的生命,包括领队和五个夏尔巴人,全都是耶什的朋友。“我再也不会去登山了,”耶什说道。这就是他当厨师的原因。当厨师要安全得多。
Next day, the hard work of carrying loads between Camps 1, 2 and now 3 continued. Bynow,Arlene had made the trip from Camp 1 to Camp 2 five times. The journey from Camp 2 to Camp 3 was extremely dangerous with a heavy load. It would be very easy to fall off the Dutch Rib. They were above 6,000 metres there, and there was so little oxygen that the climbers had to breathe several times for each step they took.
接下来的一天,在一号、二号和三号营地间运送东西的艰苦工作照常进行。到现在为止,阿琳已经在一号营地和二号营地之间走了五趟。负重从二号营地走到三号营地是极其危险的,很容易从“荷兰肋”上摔下去。他们位于6,000米海拔之上的高处,那里氧气极其稀薄,登山者每走一步就得喘上几次。
There were also the avalanches which came down the mountain night and day. Arlene was woken at two o'clock on the morning of September 25th by the frightening sound of an avalanche. There were also very strong winds and the tents were shaking. After that,Arlene did not sleep at all.'Why did I choose Annapurna?’she asked herself again and again. 'It's more dangerous than any other mountain - even Qomolangma.'
山上还有夜以继日不断发生的雪崩。9月25日凌晨两点,阿琳被雪崩骇人的声音惊醒。外面狂风大作,帐篷都在摇晃。惊醒之后,阿琳根本无法人睡。“我为什么选择了安纳布尔纳峰?”她一遍又一遍地问自已,“它比任何山峰---甚至是珠穆朗玛峰--都危险。”
It was becoming more and more dangerous to continue up the mountain. Irene had decided not to go higher than Camp 2.'My daughter Teresa is still only thirteen.She needs a mother, and I don't want to die.It's too dangerous to go higher now,’she told Arlene. All the women were worried about the avalanche danger. It sometimes seemed crazy to go on.
接下来的攀登变得越来越危险。艾琳决定不再攀登到比二号营地更高的地方。她对阿琳说:“我女儿特雷莎只有13岁。她需要母亲,我不想死。现在向上爬太危险了。”所有的女队员都担心雪崩的危险。有时候,继续前进似乎是疯狂的举动。
Then something happened which made them stop thinking about avalanches for a while.On September 28th, five angry Sherpas left Camp 2.Only Yeshi, who was still very friendly with Annie, remained.
接下来发生的事使得他们暂时忘却了雪崩。9月28日,五个怒气冲冲的夏尔巴人离开了二号营地。只有和安妮仍然关系密切的耶什留了下来。
'We are going back to Kathmandu,’the Sherpas told Arlene.
夏尔巴人对阿琳说:“我们要回加德满都。”
Arlene was extremely worried about the dangers of climbing without them.
阿琳非常担心,没有他们攀登会很危险。
'Let them go,’said Alison, who had never wanted the Sherpas on the climb.'It will be better without them.’
“让他们走,一直就不想让夏尔巴人参与这次攀登的艾莉森说,“没有他们会更好。”
But Arlene knew that the climb would take much longer without the Sherpas, who helped to carry food and equipment between the camps. So early next morning, Arlene and Vera Karmakova went down to Base Camp to talk to the angry Sherpas, and to find out why they had gone.
但是阿琳知道,要是没有夏尔巴人帮助在营地之间运送食物和装备的话,这次攀登花费的时间会长得多。因此,第二天一大早,阿琳和薇拉·卡玛科娃就下山来到大本营和愤怒的夏尔巴人谈话,以便了解他们离开的原因。
Arlene was happy to see Lopsang as they arrived at Base Camp.'The Sherpas want more money and better equipment,’he said.
当她们到大本营的时候,阿琳很高兴看到了洛巴桑。他说道:“这些夏尔巴人想要更多的钱和更好的装备。”
Arlene was glad that it was not a more serious problem, though she did not think the Sherpas had behaved well.'The Sherpas already have very good equipment and pay. They were wrong to leave us,’she told Lopsang,'but we'll give them 1293 rupees each - nearly forty days pay. They must go back up to Camp 2 immediately!’
尽管阿琳并不认为夏尔巴人工作有多卖力,但她还是很高兴看到问题不算严重。“夏尔巴人已经得到了很好的装备和报酬。他们离开我们是不对的,”她对洛巴桑说“不过,我们会给他们每人1293卢比,这差不多是40天的薪水了。他们必须马上回二号营地!”
Something else seemed to be worrying Lopsang.'You should have men on the first summit team.We don't want you women to disappear on the mountain!’
洛巴桑似乎还在为其他的事情担心。“第一登顶队中得有男人。我们不希望你们这些女人消失在山上!
Arlene smiled to herself, and said,'No. This is a women's expedition. The first summit team is women only; the second team can have Sherpas.’
阿琳冲自己笑了一笑,说道,“不用了。这是女人们的探险。第一登顶队中只能有女队员;第二队中可以有夏尔巴人。"
The next afternoon, the Sherpas were paid and soon they were working again.
第二天下午,夏尔巴人得到了报酬,他们很快又开始了工作。
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